The years following the end of the Civil War saw the rise and fall of two different bustle periods. The first period, from the late 1860’s through 1879, featured a soft bustle silhouette with somewhat of a full skirt. Between 1879 and 1881, the silhouette became long and tight, with only a little fullness below the calves on the back of the skirts remaining. After 1881, the bustle returned, but this time as a more dramatic “shelf” shape that was almost flat on top. The skirts during this period were less full than during the first bustle period. The bustle disappeared again in 1889 as the gored skirt and full “leg-o-mutton” sleeves of the Gibson Girl era came into fashion. The huge sleeves passed into the dustbins of history once again by 1895, but the gored, trumpet shaped skirts remained in fashion until the mid 1900’s.

1870's Red and Black Bustle Dress

Polonaise over dress with ruffled underskirt, 3/4 sleeves and square neckline.

1880 Blue Gabardine Wool Natural Form Dress

Bodice is one piece - the lace "blouse" is inset. Elaborately draped skirt is form fitting.

1880s Garnet Taffeta Bustle Dress

Under construction! Dress will eventually have an underskirt, 2 overskirts, 3 bodices, a detachable train, and an talma wrap.

1888 Purple Faille Bustle Dress

Walking suite with faux silk brocade vest, tailored skirt with inset silk brocade panel.

1889 Cotton Print Bustle Dress

Two piece dress, bodice with keyhole neckline and long tails in back, skirt with draped front, trimmed with wide grosgrain ribbon.

1890s Green Plaid Waist and Skirt

Bodice or waist of green plaid cotton with leg-o-mutton sleeves, full trumpet shaped skirt.

1890s Burgundy Silk Velvet Ballgown

Two piece ball gown of silk velvet trimmed with gold brocade, leg-o-mutton sleeves and gored skirt.

1890s Mrs Andrew Carnegie Dress

With under layer of duchess satin for structure, the lilac lace floats on a cloud of organza ruffles, the skirt extending into a train. Trimmed with purple velvet ribbon and antique lace.