If you want your historical outfit to look accurate, you must build it from the inside out. Having the correct historical underpinnings are one of the most important elements, if not THE most important element, in whether or not the result looks like a “costume” as opposed to a historical garment.

My friend Kara is planning an 1870 wedding at the Cockayne House in West Virginia. The wedding is based on a historical event that took place in the house and will be targeted to the spring of 1870 specifically. I will be the mother of the groom. Since we don’t know of anything about this woman, she told me I could do anything I want.

In keeping with my theme of trying to make things using the stash instead of buying new, I chose a pink and green silk taffeta plaid from the stash, along with some matching elements for trim:

I have a ton of the dark green silk ribbon in three different widths. I cannot remember why I bought so much of this, but it looks so good with this fabric, it would be crazy not to use it. The pink ribbon I bought to make a regency sash, but it matches this fabric so well I will use it to trim this dress. The pattern I chose for the bodice has a faux vest front. The “vest” will be off white silk taffeta.

Here are the patterns I will be using:

The chemise, drawers, and corset I already have made, using this wonderful pattern from Laughing Moon Mercantile:

I will be using the Dore corset, along with the chemise and drawers.

I have been waiting for an opportunity to make this 1870 hooped bustle since I saw it come out on Truly Victorian‘s website! In 1870 they were transitioning from elliptical crinolines to the bustle. This crinoline / bustle hybrid was referred to as a “crinolette”

Over the crinolette goes the petticoat. This pattern is also from Truly Victorian and includes options for four different styles covering 1870s – 1890s. I will be using the style on the right, which is for the early bustle era:

I only have 10 yards of the pink and green plaid silk fabric, which is cutting it pretty close. After looking at several patterns and doing some math, I decided to use this skirt pattern, where the apron is part of the skirt instead of a separate overskirt. I will be using Skirt B:

I absolutely love this 1870 Senora bodice! It uses a little more fabric than the standard bodice, but by cheating a little with the skirt I can eek it out:

Next: The Foundation Garments